The addition of a quality boarder fence on your property is a great way to create privacy in your outdoor space, gives extra safety and security and can also help to reduce unwanted ambient noise in your garden.
Your boarder fence is also something that adds to the curb-side appeal and look of your home so making sure that it looks great is important.
In our previous post we laid out the basics of what you will need to do to prepare for your DIY fencing project and the supplies you'll need.
Now that you're ready to get going here is a break down of what do do next.
Your boarder fence is also something that adds to the curb-side appeal and look of your home so making sure that it looks great is important.
In our previous post we laid out the basics of what you will need to do to prepare for your DIY fencing project and the supplies you'll need.
Now that you're ready to get going here is a break down of what do do next.
Set it up
When you were planning out your fence you should have decided how high you would like it and chosen the post that will suit this.
Using your string line and Measure out and mark where your posts will be, space the posts 2m apart.
Dig holes with a spade or post hole borer to a depth of 600mm and make sure to clear out any loose material in the holes.
Using your string line and Measure out and mark where your posts will be, space the posts 2m apart.
Dig holes with a spade or post hole borer to a depth of 600mm and make sure to clear out any loose material in the holes.
Brace your posts
Move your stringline from the centre of the post holes, to 50mm away from where the face of your posts will sit.
Starting with your 2 end posts you should check that they are 50mm off the string line, brace the post and make sure they are plumb.
Next, run a string line between the 2 end posts to mark the hight of your fence. If you can, you should use a lazar level here to be sure the string line is correct or if you are building your fence on uneven or sloped ground.
Continue to place and brace the remaining posts in their holes in the same way.
Starting with your 2 end posts you should check that they are 50mm off the string line, brace the post and make sure they are plumb.
Next, run a string line between the 2 end posts to mark the hight of your fence. If you can, you should use a lazar level here to be sure the string line is correct or if you are building your fence on uneven or sloped ground.
Continue to place and brace the remaining posts in their holes in the same way.
Top Tip:This type of project is easier with two.
You may want to ask a mate to help you hold the posts as you brace them.
Concrete the posts
Mix your concrete and get ready to pour. You should make sure you follow the instructions for the type of concrete that you have. Pour the concrete carefully around each of your posts and compact the mix to get rid of any air pockets using a piece of wood.
At this point you should once again check that your posts are still sitting 50mm off the string-line and are plumb, if anything is off then now it the time to correct and adjust it. Don't wait to do this especially if you are using a quick drying concrete, you may only have a few minutes.
Once you are happy with your posts then leave the concrete to set for at least 24 hours. Once set you can remove the braces.
At this point you should once again check that your posts are still sitting 50mm off the string-line and are plumb, if anything is off then now it the time to correct and adjust it. Don't wait to do this especially if you are using a quick drying concrete, you may only have a few minutes.
Once you are happy with your posts then leave the concrete to set for at least 24 hours. Once set you can remove the braces.
Rails
Using a chalk line, mark the position of the rails on your fence posts. You should aim to keep rails 150mm up from the bottom and 150mm down from the top. If your ground is uneven then find the highest point and measure up the post from that point for your bottom rail
If your fence is over 1200mm high you should use three rails, for fences under 1200mm use two.
You can choose if you want your rails to be fixed between the posts or to the face of the post. It all depends on what style you are going for and how you want the finished fence to look.
If your fence is over 1200mm high you should use three rails, for fences under 1200mm use two.
You can choose if you want your rails to be fixed between the posts or to the face of the post. It all depends on what style you are going for and how you want the finished fence to look.
If fixing rails between posts, rails should be measured at ground level, squared and cut to length. You can check the alignment with your chalk like and make sure the rails are square. Fix using three 100mm baton purlin screws
For face-fixed rails select a rail length that can span three posts and fix rails with two 100mm baton purlin screws, or in high wind zones use coach screws.
Use a ratchet strap to pull your posts together before screwing together. Using screws instead of nails with hold the timber together much better and will last a lot longer than if you use nails.
For face-fixed rails select a rail length that can span three posts and fix rails with two 100mm baton purlin screws, or in high wind zones use coach screws.
Use a ratchet strap to pull your posts together before screwing together. Using screws instead of nails with hold the timber together much better and will last a lot longer than if you use nails.
Palings
Fix palings to rails with galvanised fencing nails. You should aim to use 2 nails in each rail so that’s 6 nails per paling. and place them 25mm from each side. Place a paling on the ground and sit your palings on top of the board. This will help you keep them from touching the ground. If the ground isn't level where you are building your fence then you should follow the contour of the ground, and cut the top of the pailing off level when they are on.
To keep your nails in a straight line you can run a stringline and nail along that. Push the palings tightly together as you nail them, as they will shrink and use a hammer and chisel to force the boards as close together as you can. As with the posts you should check every 5-6 boards that the palings are plumb. If your ground is flat, and your palings are cut to length, then place one paling on each end of the fence, then run a stringline across the top to ensure a level line. Cut the last paling to width if needed. Flick a chalk line as a guide and use a circular saw. It’s a good idea to screw a board to the fence to use as a guide, this will give you a nice straight line.
Cut posts to height and Cut tops off posts on a slight angle using a handsaw. This helps the water drain off the post.
To keep your nails in a straight line you can run a stringline and nail along that. Push the palings tightly together as you nail them, as they will shrink and use a hammer and chisel to force the boards as close together as you can. As with the posts you should check every 5-6 boards that the palings are plumb. If your ground is flat, and your palings are cut to length, then place one paling on each end of the fence, then run a stringline across the top to ensure a level line. Cut the last paling to width if needed. Flick a chalk line as a guide and use a circular saw. It’s a good idea to screw a board to the fence to use as a guide, this will give you a nice straight line.
Cut posts to height and Cut tops off posts on a slight angle using a handsaw. This helps the water drain off the post.
Hopefully this guide will help you with your DIY fencing project and Good luck!
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